033 - Zero Cabinet
From Castrovalva (1982)
Version 1 - Updated 6/25/2020

Beta: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1h51lYuX8GPgRGC3v2DfQ_-8Al3xCJoDx

Special thanks to Boundry Hopper on Gallifrey Base for the use of his roundel design. (I made one myself, but it was nowhere near as detailed.)

This figure uses the same files for both PLA and Resin versions. You do have the option of printing the cabinet with the roundels as separate pieces (in case you want to print them out of semi-transparent filament or resin) or solid meged with the lid and box.

Due to the large number of rounded and overhanging pieces, the box and lid may not print particularly well in regular filament. When assembling, slot the lid into the box first, and then slide partway open and glue the base panel down to lock it in place.

Note that I had to flub the dimensions slightly so that you could actually fit the Character Options Peter Davison's figure inside it. I made it as snug as I could, but due to the way his arms are positioned I had to make it wider than it should have been, which proportionally increased the overall dimensions by somewhere around 7 to 10% of proper 5.5" scale.
It's not too far off, but if you want a truly screen accurate version (and plan on leaving it empty, you may have to shrink it a bit in your slicer software.

Before painting, it is recommended that you fit all parts loosely together without glue to make sure that they fit and move freely. You may need to sand down some parts or drill out some holes if they are too tight or don't fit together smoothly.

Pretty easy, the box itself is white, though it does end up a little dingy by the time they get it outdoors, especially around the corners.
The roundels are a slightly yellowed fiberglass or aged resin color. Printing them out of "natural" colored filament will probably get you pretty close. For resin printing, you may want to try mixing some clear resin with white, or Siraya Tech's Tenacious resin, which is almost exactly this slightly yellowed transparent color straight out of the bottle.

If your roundels come out too transparent, try scuffing the reverse side with sandpaper to give them a more frosted look. You can also artificially yellow them by deliberately leaving them under your UV cure light for longer than you would normally.

Glue in the roundels (if printed seperately)
Insert the sliding lid (make sure the side tabs go towards the open top end of the cabinet)
Then securely glue on the top end cap to lock the lid in place.

Coming soon.