Designs featured on this page were created by our guest designers and may not be fully articulated or tested for compatibility with the 5.5" range of figures.
Some of these designs have been modified by me with permission of the artist (typically to add articulation, extra bells and whistles, and/or make them slightly more screen accurate or easier to print) and are listed as "Remix" figures.
The same rules that apply to my own designs also apply to all remix fixures. They are not to be reposted to other sites or printed and sold for financial gain.
For all other figures and props, unless you have received permission from the original creator (most of whom can be contacted via our Facebook Group) assume that they are also not to be reposted to other sites or produced and sold for financial gain. If you aren't sure what this means, read the F.A.Q. page, contact me on Facebook, or just assume that if you are requesting money for any product constructed using these designs, you are breaking the rules and DON'T DO IT!
All it takes is one greedy person to ruin the fun for everybody.
If you are an artist and would like to submit 3D printable files for inclusion on this website, please contact Troy Wood via the3D Printing Doctor Who Facebook Group or tag @troyryanwood on instagram. Please understand that we're only interested in sharing professional quality finished files in STL or OBJ format that are ready for 3D printing.
Guest designs can be based on anything from both the old and new series of Doctor Who, including it's spin-offs (official or otherwise), the Peter Cushing movies, Big Finish audio plays, comics, annuals, novels, Blue Peter contests, board games, ice lolly packets, Weetabix cards.... anything that can be obviously recognized as being Doctor Who-related, provided it's family friendly.
While it's nice if you can scale your designs to match one of the existing toy ranges, this is not required. They can be any scale or size, hyper-realistic or stylized, articulated or a solid statue.
If you do scale your design to a particular range, let me know which one so I can categorize it correctly.
Do not submit partially completed works in progress, duplicates of existing figures/accessories in the Character Options toy range (even if they're out of print), designs created by other artists (unless you have their permission) or random household objects like keychains and drink coasters that you've simply slapped the Doctor Who logo onto.
Figures/Playsets in scale with the existing 5.5" Character Options range of figures that I have personally remixed to be fully articulated and/or add improvements.
1970's Newbery TARDIS Base
1970's Newbery TARDIS Top
1980's Yardley TARDIS Base
Movie/Supreme Dalek bumper (solid)
Movie/Supreme Dalek bumper with holes for Lego wheels
Modern Dalek Bumper
Custom Sontaran Helmet (no eye holes)
5" Scale REMIX Figures:
Figures/Playsets in scale with the existing 5.5" Character Options range of figures that I have personally remixed to be fully articulated and/or add improvements.
REMIX001 - Battle Damage Emperor Dalek Original design by Edward Felix, Remixed by Troy Ryan Wood
Version 3 - Updated 1/16/2021
Notes: This was my first remix, and mainly a superficial one. The outside is almost entirely Edward Felix's original design, I just pimped it out by adding
a movable eyestalk, alignment pegs, Flashing LED string light support, the large triangular plinth and two removable front panels and an exposed central core that will let you transform the figure into the burnt out "dead" version with exposed wiring as
seen in the climactic battle at the end of episode 6. (Even though this episode is missing and all we have are some behind-the-scenes videos shot with a handheld camera)
Print Recommendations: This figure has multiple alternate file options depending on what features you want to add to your Emperor. Note that while there *is* a SLA resin version, the Emperor is far too big to print on a regular-sized resin printer like the Anycubic Photon or Elegoo Mars. You'd need to print the skirt on a regular filament printer or one of the expensive large scale resin printers if you want it to come out successfully.
For PLA filament printing, I recommend printing at 80 to 100% infill if you're planning on adding LEDs so it doesn't glow through the plastic too badly. You can drop down to a lower infill amount for most pieces if you won't be using lights. The eyestalk should be printed at 100% fill for maximum durability. (You may want to print a spare just incase the first one snaps.)
All versions of the figure use the same Head and Dome parts. There are two versions of the Eyestalk depending on whether you are printing in PLA or SLA resin (on a resin printer you have the option of inserting a tiny LED into the eye itself!).
There are two versions of the triangular Corner Plinth (which is entirely optional.)
There's a Solid version that can only be printed of very large printers, and a Split version, that is split into three parts, if it makes it easier to print.
Battle Damage Skirt (No Hemis) -Use this version if you are printing the Battle Damage version on a PLA filament printer.
You will need to print the Left Damage Panel No Hemis, Right Damage Panel No Hemis, Black Hemis and Black Button Hemi files to go with this version. The hemispheres (or dalek bumps) are separate so you can print them flat without overhangs. You only need to print the Black Button Internal for LED file if you intend to mount Flashing LED string lights (this should be the type that has a button.) If you do not, you still need to print the separate Black Button Hemi to cover the hole. It is recommended that you print the Internal Battle Damage Core with this version as it provides support for hoses and wires, but is not essential if you want to completely build the inside from scratch.
Battle Damage Skirt (With Hemis) -Use this version if you are printing the Battle Damage version on a large sized resin printer or are using one of those fancy dual-extruder filament printers that lets you print disolvable supports so you don't have to worry about ugly overhangs.
You will need to print the Left Damage Panel With Hemis, Right Damage Panel With Hemis, and the Black Button Hemi files to go with this version. You only need to print the Black Button Internal for LED file if you intend to mount Flashing LED string lights (this should be the type that has a button.) If you do not, you still need to print the separate Black Button Hemi to cover the hole. It is recommended that you print the Internal Battle Damage Core with this version as it provides support for hoses and wires, but is not essential if you want to completely build the inside from scratch.
Solid Skirt (No Hemis) - Use this version of the skirt if you want a regular undamaged Emperor. You do not need to print the Internal Battle Damage Core or any of the Damage Panels. You will still need to print and glue on the Black Hemis and Black Button Hemi for this version, even if you do not intend to mount LED lights.
Color Recommendations: The exterior is pretty simple since we have good reference photos. The upper dome and upper two chest hemispheres should be a yellowed cream color, approximately the same color as unpainted fiberglass resin. (Fun fact... the head of the Emperor Dalek is actually a Chumbley recycled from Galaxy 4!)
The majority of the head and body is light grey (Testors "Light Ghost Grey" seems to be a pretty close match) however, the interior of the lights encircling the head are white, and the slats between the "crown" parts of the head are painted the same black as the body hemispheres, "candy apple" part of the eyestalk, collar, and "bib" behind the upper two hemispheres. The end of the eyestalk is grey with a white iris.
If you intend to hook hoses to the outside of your model, you'll want to look for some 4mm OD/2mm ID white silicon tubing.
If you want to be extra accurate, paint or sharpie the last mm or so of the tube black where it connects to the pegs on the body.
The plinth is dark blue, with silver trim around the edges.
The interior is another matter. I recommend painting the Internal battle damage core and most of the Emperor Dalek interior black to start with. The mutant core should be green. The curled "telephone" hoses are easiest to replicate by getting a few different thicknesses of wire, and just wrapping them around different cylindrical objects like pencils, painpaintbrush handles, and the 1.5mm rod used for securing the eyestalk. It looks like they were a wide variety of colors, so just use whatever's handy. You may want to give the core a light spraydown with dilluted black airbrush paint before final assembly to blacken and stain everything a bit so that it looks like it's been on fire.
Assembly Instructions: If you are using the optional LED string lights, the first thing you need to do before assembling anything else is push the Black Button Internal for LED (the little peg part) through the square hole on the inside of the emperor so the round end sticks out through the back. This is what you'll be gluing the Black Button Hemi to eventually, but once you've got the button through the hole, hold the skirt so the button is lying flat, and you can slide your LED string light into position from the slot near the neck section, you'll need to slide it down so that the LED string comes up through the same hole on the left side (which has a slight circular hole cut into it) Everything should line up in such a way that the peg you inserted earlier lines up with the button on the LED battery pack, and pushing it from the outside will turn the lights on and off.
If you want to be able to change the batteries later, I recommend that you do not glue the battery pack in place, or only use hot glue that is easy to remove later.
The rest of assembly is easy. The head and dome only go on one way. (If you want to leave the battery pack accessible You should either not glue the head, or glue it with hot glue or something you can pry loose later.
If you're using LEDs, Insert the LED string lights into the light holes around the edge of the crown. These will need to be sealed in place. You can use crazy glue, but I prefer using UV craft resin. The lights will alternately blink when you turn them on with the button. This is screen accurate from what we can tell from a few surviving behind the scenes clips.
If you printed in resin and intend to mount a LED in the eyestalk, you will need to clip off the very end of the LED string (leave at least a couple of centimeters of wire after the next light) then burn the ends where you cut the wire with a lighter. There's an incredibly thin insulation coating you need to strip away. Once that's done, insert the lone LED into the eyestalk hole and feed the wire through the tiny hole into the head. Use electrical
tape to very carefully reattach the wires. This is easiest done with the lights turned on, so you can make sure you're getting a clean contact. The voltage on these lights is so low, you don't have to worry about getting a shock.
Once you've got LEDs in place (if you're using them) mount the eyestalk in place with a length of 1.5mm wide brass rod trimmed to the right length, or failing that, a toothpick or bit of coat hanger.
The internal Battle Damage Core has several holes where you can mount springs, wires, or bits of extra tubing. I originally intended to use springs for my design, but found that simply wrapping lenths of different gauge wire around the 1.5mm brass rod, an old screwdriver, and a few different sizes of paintbrush handle gave me a nice assortment of curly tubes to add to the center. I recommend gluing the Battle Damage Core in place to the back wall once you have everything set up the way you want it. there should be no reason to remove it from the figure once it's in place since it doesn't interfere with the LED pack.
REMIX002 - Kronos (Chronovore) Original design by James Lee, Remixed by Troy Ryan Wood
Version 2 - Updated 11/16/2020
Print Recommendations: This figure should be printable in PLA (James original was) but the shoulder pads are very thin and may require additional support. I have included two alternate versions of the wings; a solid version for PLA and a SLA version that has a separation between the front and back edges of the wings.
Color Recommendations: This is one figure you can get away with not painting at all if you printed him in white to begin with.
If you want to add an extra bit of detail, the eye screens in the mask should be a dirty grey, and there's some slight discoloration around the edges of the crest. Otherwise, he's all white.
Assembly Instructions: Begin by attaching the wings to the shoulder pivots with 1.5mm wide brass rod trimmed to just a couple of mm shorter than the depth of the hole. I prefer the brass rods for my design because they're incredibly sturdy while still easy to cut, but you can always use
a toothpick or bit of coat hanger if you want.
Once the rod is all the way through the shoulder pivot, seal the open end with UV craft resin, craft putty, or crazy glue gel. Then do the same to attach the legs to the thighs (make sure you have the feet pointing the correct direction before you seal it in place! The legs should bend backwards but not forwards)
Next, take the hip sheaths (the small half cylinders) and clamshell them around the hip joints on the crotch. they should spin freely. If not, you may need to file them a bit. Usually, you don't need to glue the hip sheaths together themselves, just put some crazy glue into the thighs, and slide the hip sheaths into place.
Stick the leg assembly up through the central hole in the skirt, and clamshell the torso around the other end, as well as the two wings and the head. Make sure all the pieces fit together and move correctly before you crazy-glue the torso shut. If the hips are loose, you may need to glue the top part of the skirt to the underside of the torso.
Finally, add the shoulder pads, and you have an fully assembled Chronovore.
5.5" Scale Figures:
Figures/Playsets in scale with the existing 5.5" Character Options range of figures.
These may or may not be articulated, and I may or may not create remixed versions of some of them later.
Classic 60's TARDIS Interior Playset by Chris Jones
Notes: An impressively complete build here, even going so far as to include the various antique chairs, armillary sphere, cathedral clock, and food machine seen during the first season. Everything has been test printed by the author and verified functional. You can also download the Astral Map and Time Space Visualizer a little further below.
Secondary Console Room TARDIS Console from Season 14 by Jeffrey Fink
Notes:Another glorious design by Jeffrey Fink who also created the 8th Doctor Console room set my own version was based around. The writing surface doors open, the drawers slide out, even the tiny little metal rams heads are exquisitely detailed. You're going to want to have this resin printed, or head over to Shapeways and have the metal rails and rams heads custom printed in actual brass or bronze!
Rani's TARDIS from Mark of the Rani by Jeffrey Fink
Notes:Because of the size and wall thicknesses, the walls are designed to be glued along the edges. The roof frame is designed to allow the sides to slot into it, but there are no slots on the base. The peg holes for the doors will need to be cleaned
The two front panels have a slot for a 2.4mm rod to be inserted into them. There is enough space on the back of the panels to allow for lighting if you wish. The base is opened
on the under side and should have enough room for a battery pack.
The Whomobile from Planet of the Spiders by Chris Jones
Download: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4681236 Notes: This design is jumping to the top of my remix list for 2021. Chris has come up with an amazing design here that even includes a functional steering column.
Absorbaloff from Love and Monsters by James Lee
Download: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_KdmCiB5b2XH0dCnQzUI88-hdd2H_dpc Notes: The first of many figures designed by the prolific and talented James Lee.
This figure even comes with an optional cane and pavement-stone face accessories!
Note that the mesh has fine detail than a standard resolution resin printer simply can't reproduce. The arms and legs are attached via a simple universal peg design which means you should have no difficulty printing this figure in either filament or resin, but resin will give you significantly improved surface detail.
Chameleon from The Faceless Ones by James Lee
Download: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1wlXDc2hEhXzOev5rjvYadeQgJ2FQK13Z Notes: Not to be confused with Kameleon, the 5th Doctor's robotic companion and unfortunate stooge of The Master, these are the enemy of the 2nd Doctor who look like they were attacked by silly string.
As with most of James' designs, the mesh has more detail than a standard resolution resin printer can reproduce. This is another universal peg design figures that should print just fine in either filament or resin, though as always, resin will give you greatly improved surface detail.
Draconian from Frontier In Space by James Lee
Download: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-Z_HNqqnR343ocVznMVPnzckEkQwp3a5 Notes: As with most of James' designs, the mesh has more detail than a standard resolution resin printer can reproduce. This is another universal peg design figures that will print just fine in either filament or resin, though resin is definitely the way to go if you want to see all those little scaly bumps and beard whiskers when it finishes printing.
Cyber Warrior from Ascension of the Cybermen by James Lee
Download: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZeId8XjZDGqrv1sNSswUTK6RbqoA-qZ4 Notes: This figure uses a ball and socket design for the head that will not work without modification on resin printers (you'll need to sand it down after printing so that it basically becaomes another peg.) Due to the angular nature of this design, it prints fairly well on a regular filament printer, though resin will give you improved surface detail, especially on the overhangs.
Cyber Master from The Timeless Children by James Lee
Download: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1q8vzNDUhWWAvgjLGbPujYnxQHe2FS4c7 Notes: This figure uses a ball and socket design for the head that will not work without modification on resin printers (you'll need to sand it down after printing so that it basically becaomes another peg.) Due to the angular nature of this design, it prints surprisingly well on a regular filament printer, but resin will give you improved surface details, especially on the collar and robes.
Dalek Trooper from Resurrection of the Daleks by James Lee
Notes: This is a two-fer, with the main armor of the body doubling for both versions. To print the Knight Commander, you'll need to download the Destroyer model and just change out the appropriate parts.
This is another peg design figures that should print just fine in either filament or resin, though as The Destroyer is arguably the single most detailed monster of the classic series, you'll really need a resin printer to do it true justice.
"Nightmare" Cyberman from Nightmare in Silver by James Lee
Download: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lqsc7Qxkm4EmyIOQ42rAYumkSv6-liec Notes: This figure uses a ball and socket design for the head that will not work without modification on resin printers (you'll need to sand it down after printing so that it basically becaomes another peg.) Due to the angular nature of this design, it prints fairly well on a regular filament printer, though resin will give you improved surface detail, especially on the overhangs.
"Wheel" Cyberman from Wheel in Space by James Lee
Download: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1jiAtPk9rvBMEP1IEb97Ni6Kha_z-nihI Notes: As with most of James' designs, the mesh has more detail than a standard resolution resin printer can reproduce. This is another universal peg design figure that should print fine in filament or resin, but you may lose some of the smaller surface details and hoses if printing in regular filament.
Peter Cushing "Dr. Who" from the 60's Dalek movies by James Lee
Sontaran Steg from Shakedown: Return of the Sontarans (Spin-off) by James Lee
Download: https://drive.google.com/file/d/12DdcMgkVkz9IfriwiEym9a6rfV9GVA-z Notes: The new Sontaran design featured in the Shakedown direct to video movie. Due to the angular nature of this design, it prints fairly well on a regular filament printer, though resin will give you improved surface detail, especially on the overhangs. It uses the standard peg design for the arms and legs and also comes with an optional Two Doctors style gun accessory.
The Lone Cyberman from The Haunting of Villa Diodati by James Lee
Download: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1RWErJ5S2LQqLCdvbfDQEhYRauP41TRSy Notes: The angular nature of the cyberman means that this one prints surprisingly well with regular filament. The arms and legs are attached via his universal peg design which means you should have no difficulty printing this figure in either filament or resin, but resin will give you significantly improved surface detail.
Blackpool Exhibition Entrance TARDIS by Grant Holdsworth
Golden Emperor Dalek from Timelord Victorious by CaptainJimiPie
Download: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4627305 Notes: Jimi is primarily known for his customization work and youtube videos, but built this model as a stand-alone kit based off the Golden Emperor Dalek featured in the Timelord VictoriousDaleks! animated series. While I believe he printed the example below in regular filament, looking at the design, there should be no reason why it wouldn't print just as well in resin. You can check out his video for this particular creation here.
Mr. Smith from The Sarah Jane Adventures by Daniele Roccati
Proposed Season 27 TARDIS Console Room by Michael Thresher
Download: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4561299 Notes: Based on Mike Tucker's concept design drawings and model for a proposed Season 27 console room redesign (which was briefly used as a backdrop by Sylvester McCoy's for some 35th anniversary wrap-arounds on BBC Choice.) This design includes the console, but not the rotor, and requires a handful of clear parts for completion.
TT Capsule (TARDIS without Chameleon Circuit) by Stephen Miller
Download: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2515661 Notes: Based on the slimmer version stolen by the 12th Doctor in Hell Bent. The Mark 40 stolen by the 1st Doctor and Susan during The Name of the Doctor was significantly wider and taller, so presumably this version is a more recent model.
The Rani's TARDIS Console from Mark of the Rani by Jeffrey Fink
Notes: While this is jaw-dropping gorgeous, please note that Matt printed these things on two different custom-built printers, with significantly larger build areas than most people have at home. However, if you're building a Dalek and looking for specific parts to complete your design, this is a good place to pick up bits that you don't feel like fabricating or buying online.
6th Doctor's Sonic Lance from Attack of the Cybermen by Various
Notes: Several individuals have taken a stab at recreating this prop, but nobody seems to have gotten the proportions exactly right yet. (To be fair, there aren't many good source images.) Edward Baum's version is a hollow clamshell design with a functional button for triggering an internal LED, though I think David Dunlap's version is slightly closer to replicating the overall shape correctly, though none of them include the thumb slider on the right-hand side.
Romana I's Dress Clasp from The Ribos Operation by Edward Baum
Notes: This turns into an absolutely gorgeous prop when professionally sanded, assembled, and painted. (Image below courtesy of Agents of Chaos design) Sadly, it appears the designer has deleted his thingiverse account, so unless I can get his permission to repost the files elsewhere, this design is currently unavailable.
Cyberman Gun from Earthshock/The Five Doctors/Attack of the Cybermen by Ron Goldberg
Notes: Another gorgeous prop, but like the Staser Rifle, the designer has deleted his thingiverse account, so unless I can get his permission to repost the files elsewhere, this design is currently unavailable.
Notes: This prop is a single solid piece, ideal for resin printers. If you are filament printing, you may want to consider splitting it into two halves and printing it directly on your build plate (or borosilicate glass plate) without a raft to minimize overhangs.
Home Box from Time of the Angels by Stephen Miller
Notes: This prop is a single solid piece, but because it's quite large and contains two concave depressions, you will probably want to split it into chunks so that all depressions are printed facing upwards and there are no overhangs.
Personally, I would slice the cube into four separate pieces: The side that has River's writing (about midway between the edge and the rim of the circle), the same on the opposite side that doesn't have writing, then the rest of the box split lengthwise the other direction through the center of the ridged part in the middle. This will make sure that all major surface detail is printed facing upwards for maximum quality.
Notes: This is probably one of the most epic 3D printer builds ever, and unlike the 3D printed full-scale Dalek above, Ian's version should be fully printable from a regular sized home 3D printer. It'll just take a really long time and a ton of filament. On the plus side, when you're finally done printing several months from now, you'll have a gorgeous full-scale Timelord's best friend, who's incredibly light weight, durable, and includes all the mounts you need to add motors to make him fully remote controlled!
As this is a build not to be undertaken lightly, I highly recommend checking out the K-9 Builder's Group on Facebook first, to get a better undetstanding of what other builders have done before you, and how massive a dent it'll put in your wallet.
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